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Meal's end at Huarache Azteca

Huarache Azteca ( 5225 York Blvd. Los Angeles)
If you're lucky enough, you'll actually take Jonathan Gold's advice, and make the short, or long, trek to Highland Park's Huarache Azteca. You might waste your time with the tacos, fine enough, but not really anything greater than you might find at any of LA's better taco trucks, of which there are many. Instead, take the simple route, go with the name, and try a Huarache: a big, oblong, stretched oval of masa dough, covered with refried beans, cheese, sour cream and your choice of meat. And then try another if you're still hungry. (A)

Jitlada (5233 W. Sunset Blvd. Los Angeles)
Jitlada, if it is nothing else, would easily qualify as the purveyor of the spiciest food I have eaten in Los Angeles, and perhaps anywhere. The Coco Mango Salad, if you arrive on the right night, with enough Thais to convince the wait staff you really mean it when you say "Thai spice," can be as close as one gets to whatever ecstasy is produced by a perfect combination of citrus, undeniable spice and sugar. But please don't stop there. The green mussels, in a broth of garlic, lemongrass, basil and chilies are worth at least the affordable $12 price tag they come with. The southern Thai curries, spicy enough, may be as good as any I've had in LA. And there's a dish of fried catfish with blistery, charred basil leaves that is worth the trip by itself. All served in a charming space that looks like it hasn't changed in the last 15-20 years. A restaurant unashamed at putting copies of its good reviews on top of its tables. (A)

Foxy's (206 W. Colorado St. Glendale)
The function of Foxy's, in my life at least, is a simple one: it's the restaurant I head to when I've had a long day, have no desire to make a decision about where to go eat, and desire nothing more than a basic restaurant with basic choices. It only helps that the rectangular dining room is bounded with comfortable booths I could sleep in, toasters at each table, and a fireplace on one end, all underneath a triangle-shaped, chalet style roof that feels more like the Sierras than Glendale. Foxy's is in no way fancy. They serve a pretty good hamburger, and a host of sandwiches, that arrive with your choice of a completely forgettable salad (pass on it, please) or a soup that might be on par with the Campbell's variety in your pantry, or perhaps a few notches up if you're lucky. A good portion of the menu, though, is devoted to Mexican inspired dishes. Really, I'm getting bored writing this review. There's nothing really amazing here. But it's all very comforting, which is sometimes better than amazing. (B)

Paru's (5140 W Sunset Blvd. Los Angeles)
You can almost feel the other patrons breathing on you at Paru's, owing to the cozy confines of the main indoor dining area (there's also a more open air courtyard setting, for the claustrophobic). It can be bothersome, as you listen to the more annoying locals pontificate, annoyingly, on the virtues of high end hotels. Or you can settle in, take in the ambiance of the faded, tantalizing photos and pictures that crowd the wall, and wish you were actually in India. The food, though not on par with Artesia's Tirupathi Bhimas, is a fair substitute when you don't feel like making the 30 minute drive. Honestly, I'm partial to the carnivorous fare served at Asohka the Great, or even Pasadena's Sitar, or Diamond Bar's Diamond Palace. But there's certainly something to be sad for a good vegetable curry and a deceptively filling dosa, both of which they offer at Paru's. Pony up for one of the entrees (all of which hover around $12), and treat yourself to some combination of curry, yoghurt, dosa, paratha, chutney, and a host of other surprises, most of which are quite tasty. (B+)

Dos Burritos ( 4734 Hollywood Blvd. Los Angeles)
Dos Burritos is my new Sunday afternoon spot, if for no other reason than the Sunday specials they offer on their menu. The place serves Mexican and Salvadoran food. Thankfully, my immediate inclination, before I even read the reviews, was to go with the Salvadoran specials, which may be more in line with the owner's culinary gifts. I feel rewarded for my accidental burst of intuition. If you're by yourself, go with the Bandera which, for ten bucks, gets you a sampling of three of the days specials. Try the Casuela de Pescado, a dish of fish served in plantain sauce with peanuts and spices that tastes as much of Thailand as it does of Central America. The Seco De Gallina O Chivo, also well worth sampling, is a dish of chicken or goat, cooked with tomato, onion, peppers, cilantro, and naranjilla, mixed with spices and beer. Balance it with a taste of ceviche: shrimp, clam, or maybe fish, if you come on the right Sunday. (A-)