Friday, January 15, 2010

Thailand


This is what greeted us, thankfully, after a 22 hour sleepless trip: juk with thousand year old egg, fresh ginger, green onion and essential white pepper. The spot was one of the ubiquitous bare walled roadside restaurants in Bangkok. It was 2 AM and the family that ran the place was chopping onion next to us as we ate.


Pics below from a place on a relatively quiet street in Chinatown I would have never found on my own. The fish was simple and amazing. I think I ate 75% of the pieces of garlic by myself, each paired with a piece of fish and a few pieces of chili.




Shark fin soup. As good as I had hoped.
The crab that soon became part of my dinner (below).

Bangkok mall food courts can be amazing. For one, they're ice cold which is basically a godsend even in what they might refer to as Winter in Bangkok, where it's only around 95, with about 1000% humidity. These pictures are from the Siam Paragon food court which, in addition to housing a really nice grocery store, features a pretty good variety of non-Thai vendors (if you get sick of Thai food) as well as about 15 or so Thai/Southeast Asian vendors with the usual standbys you'll recognize on any trip to Bangkok. Some of these are featured below, beginning with the shaved ice we shared at meal's end. One of my chief regrets, besides not making a reservation early enough for the seafood buffet at Lord Jim, at the Oriental Hotel, is not eating any of the Thai-Indian food they serve in these food courts. Hopefully there will be a next time.










There's a place somewhere a bit north of the Banglamphu historic district, a place I hope I can visit again if I'm lucky enough to make it back to Bangkok again. The name translates as Grandma's Place and, in a number of ways the name seems appropriate. The restaurant exists in a house, with the dining room separated into at least two small rooms, all decorated with vintage black and whites like the two below. There's a karoake machine that any patron may utilize. There's also a stack of books sitting by the cash register with at least one book by Noam Chomsky stacked atop a bunch of other books on contemporary affairs. They go out of their way to let patrons know they do not use MSG and, moreover, that MSG=death. Anyway, the food is really good, even without the MSG.





One of their versions of larb.

Crispy fried catfish with apples, a dish we were told has become somewhat out of fashion because of health concerns.

Pork with kimchee.

One of the sour/sweet soups I can't get enough of.

MK (below)is a pretty popular chain in Thailand. You can find it just about anywhere, particularly at malls. Their draw is sukiyaki, served after you look through a huge menu of meats and veggies and determine exactly what you want in your sukiyaki. The hot pot is fine, but the most interesting and entertaining part comes at the beginning of every hour, when the candy-striperesque waitstaff comes out on the floor in unison and performs some kind of choreographed welcome dance. It's weird, believe me, and you can just see the looks of "I can't fucking believe we have to do this again," on the girl's faces, even through the smiles.




The pictures below are from a little roadside stand in northern Thailand outside Chiang Rai. Mountain food.


One of our days in Chiang Mai, the northern Thai town of temples and ex-pats, was spent partly at a pretty forgettable cooking school, where we "learned" to cook things that either (a) we already knew how to cook or (b) could have figured out how to cook in a few seconds. One of the best parts was the trip to the market chronicled below. The first picture is some kind of pickled fish we bought at the market, sampled immediately, and soon discarded for fear of sodium overload.


Thai eggplant.

They occasionally produce rice in Thailand.



Solidified pig's blood, used quite a bit in Thai soups.

Our driver took us to a pretty nice lunch spot one day on the western side of Chiang Mai, with some of the basic northern specialties.


More papaya salad, always welcome.

A variation on one of my favorite Northern Thai dishes, nam prik noom, this one with eggplant and pureed chiles eaten with fried pork skins, cucumbers and cabbage.

Spicy jackfruit just like the dish at Hollywood's Spicy Thai BBQ.

Sitting alone on a dark road off one of Chiang Mai's main roads was this somewhat atmospheric place. It was exactly what I had been hoping for, especially the cheesy band that played through the meal.


Fried worms as an appetizer. Salty, a bit crunchy and bit chewy.
Mussaman curry, fried chicken, soup, the everpresent nam prik noom and a couple of other dishes I can't remember.

Bird's nest soup. Breakfast.

A few blocks away from the King's palace in Bangkok is a nice little market...
Fried fish cakes with marinated cucumber.

Chinatown, besides hosting a line of jewelry and trinket shops I could do without, has a bit of street food. More than a bit. My favorite may have been the snack below. A betel leaf wrap with lime, chile, toasted cocoanut, ginger, purple onion, and a sweet tamarind-shrimp paste sauce. I think it may have made me sick that night but, whatever, it was worth it. I'm going to make these at our next dinner party. Remind me. To wash it down I had a bag of salty plum juice which, though extremely pleasantly memorable, may have been the real culprit of my stomach issues. It's the ice, I guess.







My favorite fruit in Thailand (below), the mildly sweet Fa-rong, which shares the name with the Thai word for foreigner. Supposedly the version of Far-ong originally brought to Thailand had curly red hair on top, like foreigners. One of our friends told us that when they interview rural Thai girls on television and ask them what their dream is they almost without fail reply that it is to "marry a fa-rong."





Getting a bit pretentious at a temple.

Breakfast one morning, sticky rice with pork wrapped in banana leaves.
My favorite restaurant of the whole trip may have been this little spot, deep in the dusty suburbs of Bangkok. The royal family of Thailand, at least some of them, are fans. Besides eating giant baked shrimp which I somehow forgot to photograph, we enjoyed a number of fish dishes, some with kaffir lime leaves and chile among other things, one with whole green peppercorns, as well as a som dam (salad) made with apples instead of papaya.



I can't forget to mention durian (below). I tried it before in Malaysia, and really couldn't stand it. My father in law convinced me it was better in Thailand. I'm not sure if it was better or not. I don't think I hate it, but I have no real desire to eat it again.

Lastly, some of the best meals we had were served in one of our host's offices in between massages up the street. Pictured below is the first yen-to-fo we had. Two weeks later, can't wait to get back.

Yen-to-fo with pork blood.
for some non-food pictures head to another blog I contribute to:quadruplekegstand.blogspot.com

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Out of food thoughts for a little while


Favorite Movies Ever (in no order)
1. The Wicker Man (the Hammer version)
2. Aguirre, The Wrath of God
3. Two Lane Blacktop
4. Kill Bill Vol. I and II (II is better overall)
5. The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
6. The Wild Bunch
7. The Beyond
8. The Seventh Seal
9. The Third Man
10. Ring of Fire (documentary about Indonesia)

Friday, August 7, 2009

Laziness...



Best things I've eated since I've been away, in no particular order.

1. Cemitas (once with marinated pork and once with chicken) stuffed with chipotles, jalapenos and stringy quesillo at Cemitas Poblanas right next to Evergreen Cemetary in East LA.

2. Paper thin jamon Iberico with melon at Father's Office. Not to mention the appropriately hyped burger.

3. Ikra at Cafe Bravo in Silverlake, a middle eastern spot. The rest of the menu is kind of whatever, but the smoky eggplant blend is on par with the mutabal at Zankou.

4. Rattlesnake sausage, as well as some other sausages, at Wurstkuche which, like Umami Burger, offers a pretty simple menu of three basic items: sausage, fries and beer. Umami replaces the sausage with equally good burgers.

5. Live octopus with Hite at Masan on a late Friday night on a lonely stretch of Olympic in Koreatown.

6. The taco truck with the LCD screen at the corner of 7th and Vermont in Koreatown. Good tortas, huraches and tacos with an almost perfect condiments table.

7. Oysters and Steamed Mussels at Bouchon, a restaurant I would go to everyday if I was rich.

8. Kobe steak sashimi, bone marrow flan, warm veal tongue with salsa verde, and mac and cheese at Cut.

9. Grilled octopus, beef cheek ravioli, and two minute calamari at B&B in Las Vegas.

10. The tongue and mouth numbing ma po tofu and cubed chicken with peppers (kind of like the best Kung Pao you could ever have in the USA) at Chung King on San Gabriel.

11. Vietnamese baked catfish, also on San Gabriel, at Phong Dinh.

12. Any of the ramen bowls at Santouka, at Misuwa marketplace. Best ramen I've ever had outside of Tokyo. Asa in Gardena is also worth a drive.

13. The maneishe at Sasoun in Glendale, or on Santa Monica. I think I actually went there too much, so much that I haven't been back in awhile.

14. Yen To Fu at Sanamluang in Hollywood. Yai is also good.

15. Ramen, while listening to pleasantly enthusiastic waitresses and cooks, at Hakata Shen Sen Gumi in San Gabriel.

16. Lamb soup and sesame bread at China Islamic.

17. Insanely spicy Thai (I think they were trying to punish us for continually insisting it had to be spicy) at Thai Hollywood.

18. Enchiladas at La Cabanita in beautiful La Canada.
19. Lobsters, in my sink, in a pot, and then on my plate outside on my patio. With garlic fried rice.
20. The chicken roll and the beef roll at 101 Noodle Express.
21. Burgers, surprisingly decent BBQ, fries, and beer at the patio of the Oinkster in Eagle Rock.
22. Perfectly spicy ribs at Phillips on Crenshaw.
23. Tlayudas worth a 45 minute drive in traffic at the taco truck on Lincoln and Rose in Venice.
24. Seafood pancake, pork bossam and lot's of Hite at Kobawood House.
25. The veggie platter at Skaf's Lebanese in Glendale

Friday, May 1, 2009

Fungus


My favorite discovery of late has to be the huitlacoche quesadillas (pictured above) we found, completely by accident, while wandering around in a sun-baked zombie daze on a Sunday afternoon outside a completely worthless swap meet. A nice, predictably camera-shy, lady sells them every Sunday on a Vermont sidewalk near the intersection of Vermont and Melrose.

If you're unfamiliar with huitlacoche, which I was, here's wikipedia's take, referred to here as corn smut:

Corn smut is a disease of maize caused by the pathogenic plant fungus Ustilago maydis. U. maydis causes smut disease on maize (Zea mays) and teosinte (Euchlena mexicana). Although it can infect any part of the plant it usually enters the ovaries and replaces the normal kernels of the cobs with large distorted tumors analogous to mushrooms. These tumors, or "galls", are made up of much-enlarged cells of the infected plant, fungal threads, and blue-black spores. The spores give the cob a burned, scorched appearance. The name Ustilago comes from the Latin word ustilare (to burn).
Considered a pest in most of the United States, smut feeds off the corn plant and decreases the yield. Usually smut-infected crops are destroyed. Some farmers may also choose to prepare corn silage out of the smutted corn. However, in Mexico corn smut is called huitlacoche (IPA: [wit͡ɬakot͡ɕe], sometimes spelled cuitlacoche), a Nahuatl word reportedly meaning raven's excrement[1]. It is considered a delicacy, even being preserved and sold for a higher price than corn. For culinary use, the galls are harvested while still immature — fully mature galls are dry and almost entirely spore-filled. The immature galls, gathered two to three weeks after an ear of corn is infected, still retain moisture and, when cooked, have a flavor described as mushroom-like, sweet, savory, woody, and earthy. Flavor compounds include sotolon and vanillin, as well as the sugar glucose.


WHatever the case, these things are pretty addictive. For all I know, and assume, this lady's corn smut comes straight from a can. Either way, I'm buying it. Two Sundays in a row right now. She also sells a flor de calabazo (squash blossom) quesadilla that's fairly nice, though not as nice as the huitlacoche.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Thai New Year: Ontario, CA

More pictures than you really need...















Friday, April 10, 2009

McDonald's in India


c/o of my friend Bimal...